יום שישי, 5 במרץ 2010

London Calling 2

J.W.Anderson, who's complete name is Jonathan William Anderson, blends menacing sensual processes with a passion of magical creatures in literature and history, and has made him one of the most fascinating designers of menswear in British fashion. Anderson initially wanted to follow a vocation in acting and in 2001, he moved to US to study drama. J. W. Anderson shortly thereafter moved back to London where, while he was working as a stylist for Rufus Weinwright, he got his degree at the London College Fashionin menswear. Anderson graduated in 2007 and had before that, launched his signature label. J. W. Anderson, in September 2007, launched his collection at London fashion week with a menswear collection that was set apart from others with the usage of authentic insects in the jewelery his models wore.

This season JW did not start out by looking at any historical figures or literary reference. It was all about the people around him- his friends, family and lovers- what clothes they wear, and to which music they are listening to.Boiled Cashmere and crepe, felted wools and tartan blanket like fabrics produced in collaboration with highland craftsman reference back to the designer first collection.

Boiled Cashmere and crepe, felted wools and tartan blanket like fabrics produced in collaboration with highland craftsman reference back to the designer first collection.Taking the season’s outdoorsy theme and imbuing it with a distinctly British Punk-gone-country edge, JW Anderson turned rural on its head. The first look, small scale tartan trousers in tones of red, black and burgundy paired with a lightweight moss green t-shirt, studded, hiking boots and a belt cinched tightly around the neck a la Raf Simons AW09 set the tone for an individual highland fling.

The final few looks; boots bedecked in freshly picked flowers, a rucksack crammed full in a possible nod to Morrissey - the boy after all with the thorn in his side, studded belts winding up ankles, tied waist jumpers cut-out to become skirts in a continued play with definitions of masculinity, anoraks in technical fabrications and long-line wool coats captured the tone of the season, characterising a balance between country pursuit and youthful disaffection. I left the show with a complete satisfaction and desire to run down hills and with a flower in my mouth.

Next: JAMES LONG

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